So a question I asked myself - how do you sign off and try to mark a full-stop to this most significant of European wine chapters and tour for 2019...?
Well you get invited by Régis Camus to have a one-on-one private tasting experience of his ‘Rare’ Champagnes. Rare Champagne is now an exclusive focus - (a separate standalone brand from the Champagne House Piper-Heidsieck) and the personal wine project for Régis. Last year in 2018 we spent some time working through the Piper-Heidsieck vin clair and assemblage wines, along with other finished-dressed wines. And it was with this most recent experience and insight that was a great deal of assistance with the 'heritage' tasting conducted with Emilien Boutillat the new chef de cave at Piper Heidsieck.
I have had the honour of knowing Régis for several years. Plus on more than one occasion the unique opportunity of being guided through an extensive tasting of the single crus - components that make up this great Champagne house. I can still remember like it was yesterday, Régis taking me through one of the most extensive and insightful vin clair tastings back in 2009. An experience that made my years and study of Champagne come together and gave myself clarity in the process - creating harmony and something greater than the parts involved. Along with the assistance of Régis, he has given me a confidence and focus that has assisted me since when learning and tasting new wines across the globe.
It takes a special skill and intuition, even a sixth sense to craft than redefine a Champagne style. And then have the wines appreciated, repeat purchased and still growing around the world - and having your peers name you ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ 8 times this century, by the International Wine Challenge. Plus crafting the wine that have made Piper-Heidsieck the most awarded Champagne House this century.
Even though I know Régis - the open doors, the unparalleled assess and insights shared by Régis when I come to Reims and the winery is exceptionally generous - and that is possibly the understatement of the century. This is not a regular routine for Régis - plus one key detail when tasting at this level of disclosure - the whole experience is in French - vous devez comprendre le français. Plus there is nowhere these insights that Régis shares are written down. So you have to make the most of these one-on-one sessions.
So now with a new focus and in his native French - Régis took me through a selection of Rare Champagnes to see his creations and expressions of terroir and vintage and also taste the wine that had just received the IWC Champagne Sparking Wine for 2019 for the Champagne ‘Rare Vintage’ 2006. Made even more special as it was the ‘Daniel Thibault’ named trophy - the man behind the change in personality and direction of Piper-Heidsieck in the 1980’s through until his early passing in 2002 - and such an important mentor for Régis and the industry.
So in the tasting gallery we opened the following Rare Champagnes:
★ Rare Vintage 2002 - Richness is the key word along with ‘Iconic’ in style.
★ Rare Vintage 1998 - *(magnum) - Structure & incredible radiance…and still youthful.
★ Rare Vintage 2006 - Generosity & harmony - I can still taste it…perfectly balanced.
★ Rare Vintage Rosé 2008* - Freshness & elegance…plus a new statement and style. *(upcoming release).
The foresight of Régis is possibly unparalleled - but when talking with him, it becomes so real and tangible, a complete understanding for the cru vineyards, fruit composition, breadth & layers of flavour, synergy and alchemy (art & science coming together as one) and the maturation of 12 - 14 years on lees for the white wines and some 8 years on lees for the rosé wine is something to behold. The elevated aromas, concentration and clarity of flavours in his Rare Champagne is like experiencing a high-definition kaleidoscope for the senses for the first time. The harmony of flavour combinations and texture like no other.
Then after talking through the coming vintage and some exciting projects, we drove into the centre of Reims for dinner at the ever so friendly 2 Star Michelin Restaurant ‘Le Jardin’ - where *(Catherine Curie - my long-time friend and Ambassador for Piper-Heidsieck & Rare joined us) - and for the next few hours we enjoyed our conversation with two bottles of Rare 2002 and a Rare Rosé 2008 paired with seasonal cuisine. Such an enjoyable and memorable evening - then sadly we had to part as Régis had an incredibly early flight the next morning.
Congratulations again to my good friend on the 2019 IWC Champagne Sparking Wine Trophy for your Champagne ‘Rare Vintage’ 2006 - well deserved - always so special catching up & talking about Champagne, along with some exciting new projects. So until next time my friend, as I know you will - ‘sip, savour & share the journey…’.
★ The website: Rare Champagne.