In July of this year - I had the pleasure to be invited to spend some quality time with Émilien Boutillat - who in October 2018 became the new ‘Chef de Cave / Cellar Master’ at the Champagne House of Piper-Heidsieck. As Émilien had only joined Piper-Heidsieck 9 months prior - and not long after my last visit & vin clair tasting with Régis Camus and the team. It was important and perfect timing before the next harvest, for me to come back to meet with Émilien and talk, taste through the past cuvées.
Piper-Heidsieck is the most awarded Champagne House of the century*, renowned for the quality of its wines, thanks to the inspiration and expertise of Régis Camus. Whom Émilien has replaced as chef de cave for the Piper-Heidsieck range.
It must be noted that Régis is still a key part of this family business - hard not to be - when you have been named ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ 8 times since the beginning of the century. Régis is in charge of Champagne Rare, the top cuvée at the Champagne House - and which is now a brand on its own - *(that is another story, which will follow).
So after arriving in Reims at the winery and catching up with long-time friends - it was time mid-morning to disgorge a historical catalogue of Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV wines. Which were still resting on their lees *(i.e. with no dosage, no added sugar) - so as to look at vintage differences and cepage (varietal mix) - along with the reserve wine percentage adjustments - all designed to achieve the characteristics and personality of this radiant non-vintage cuvée. The tasting allowed for better understanding, but most importantly a respect for the past and only then can we know how to move forward with the Cuvée Brut NV.
We tasted 8 different cuvée base wines - dating from the 1999 vintage through to the current release - which has a base wine cuvée from 2016. Even though around the globe Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV is typically opened and enjoyed within 9-12 months after disgorgement - showcasing the youthfully personality of this cuvée. Going back through the vintages we can see the style and signature that has made this cuvée so much in demand and acclaimed around the world. *(above: chef de cave Émilien Boutillat)
Then after talking through and understanding the nuances of each season and blend - it was time to look at the new cuvée for the 2019 assemblage (with a 2018 base) and the subtle details that make Piper-Heidsieck. I will be back next year to taste the progress of the bottle development - but I can say with confidence the future is existing.
It must be said that this is not the normal experience or tasting one has when you are invited to the Champagne House of Piper-Heidsieck. I am extremely honoured to have this relationship - this was an incredibly insightful experience & opportunity for us both, great to be able to share my knowledge with Émilien - and after tasting the new assemblage - the future of the Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV is extremely vibrant & positive.
The Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV is sourced from 100 crus - it is always interesting to taste wines from a single crus or plot because they express that unique place. This allows the winemaking team at Piper-Heidsieck to be able to build such great blends where the characteristics of a grape varietal and its place of origin are complemented and balanced with those of another, creating harmony. After vinification the blending process focuses on finding the right combinations to achieve the standards and the house style created by Régis - and making something that is greater than the individual parts involved.
This is the skill and focus of the chef de cave, while always looking for balance at each stage of tasting. The reserve wines used for crafting the Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV - without giving too much away, are relatively young & vibrant - with an average age of 4 years. This is to ensure the house style, which is characterised by freshness, elegance and finesse. So for Émilien and the team, the challenge is how to best build the future for Piper-Heidsieck - while respecting the past.
Next on the schedule - we took some time to taste the Piper-Heidsieck 'Essentiel' range - tasting the current release alongside the next base wines, plus we looked at the age development of the same cuvée in magnum. Which is so important to understand, as today so many top wine-bars, restaurants and hotels are serving Champagne from magnums, especially with large groups for consistency - and for the freshness that wine enthusiasts are looking for and enjoying from the larger 1500ml bottle.
Until we look at the wines again… - a huge thank you to my good friend Catherine Curie - *(Ambassador for Piper-Heidsieck & Champagne Rare) - for sorting out my schedule to make this happen - and to Emilien for his incredible dynamic, engaging personality and passion for wine and Piper-Heidsieck Champagne - until next time - 'sip, savour & share the journey...'
Piper-Heidsieck Champagnes are available in New Zealand and around the world from quality wine retailers and restaurants.
Visit their website - Piper-Heidsieck Champagne