On the 10th of July - the day after Cyril Brun had proudly received the 2019 IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year Award - he flew back to Reims in France from London - so that we could celebrate together both being 50 years young in 2019.
We have been good friends since the first time we met and it is always special catching-up with Cyril - and even more so this year with the success in London and both being born in 1969 a milestone for us both - "but as we both say, just another step..."
We opened and enjoyed a number of wines, though we did not have a Charles Heidsieck from our year to celebrate with, but we had a few other wonderful wines, and one from an important year for us both to enjoy.
Cyril Brun joined the Champagne House of Charles Heidsieck as ‘chef de cave’ on the 25th of May 2015. And from day one - Cyril has embraced the character and depth of personality of the cuvées at Charles Heidsieck, but has had a clear and focus dynamic vision to continue developing this iconic Champagne that is known by those in the know.
We had had a number of rich conversations over the years - and I can say Cyril feels that the magic is to find out how to capture the essence of each of the 3 grape varietals, grown and sourced from the unique plots of land and to make sure that all of these components being blended will work together to recreate the perfect signature of the house style.
Cyril and the team can use up to 60 different crus (villages) from the entire champagne region. Selecting the parcels of fruit that are not timid in structure and secondary complexity. At the end of the day, they use the diversity of the region to bring together and maximize the individuality of anywhere from around 300 hundred different hand-harvested parcels. This process of creating harmony requires precision, experience and an incredible intuition.
During my previous visits and tastings - as we have worked through vin clair and assemblage sessions - Cyril had told me on several occasions - that one day he would like to bottle the special single barrels of Chardonnay wines that he finds each vintage during his sampling visits to the vineyards. To put together a special terroir-vintage sensory experience. So after we congratulated each other on recent achievements, Cyril announces that he has something special to show me. And he reveals 4 bottles of wine *(as shown in the photo below) - and as Cyril explains the sites he has chosen, the wines we had tasted over the years - he has bottled in my opinion four structural pillars of the NV cuvée.
He has been able to capture and express for the senses - the ability to appreciate and better understand the diversity of the Champagne region with just one varietal. Chardonnay in such focus is like looking though a magnified image on a large high-definition TV screen - the detail, and the quality of the impression on all your senses is captivating. The 4 special Chardonnay expressions are 2017: Villers-Marnery, Vertus, Oger and Montgueux and each a while defined and character-filled story on their own.
There was only one barrel of each parcel from the 4 special places that Cyril works with each season to craft the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV. The process and presentation is pure and simply a treat for the senses - if you get the chance - which will be limited due to the small number of packs able to be made. I encourage you to make an evening / dinner with the wines. Your taste-buds will be rewarded, and it will be an experience you will remember positively forever - I promise…as I will.
Then Cyril let me taste the soon to be released 2008 Charles Heidsieck Vintage - it is due out in selected markets just before Christmas…yes you can see a bottle of Charles Blanc de Blancs NV in the background - something both Cyril and I just really enjoy (which I got to taste first last year…) and so great to share as we caught-up on the past year since we last met and worked through the Charles Heidsieck parcel - assemblage tasting along with other Champagnes last year in 2018.
Then if this was not enough - it was time for another treat for us both - Cyril had arranged for a vintage 1989 Charles Heidsieck - the year when we were both 20 years old, and the year I started in the wine industry. Finding a bottle still resting on lees and he disgorged it for us to taste & enjoy alongside the labeled, released bottle of 1989 Charles Heidsieck that had been disgorged and dosage added some 20 years ago. I have been known to say that the a vintage bottle of wine is bottled-time - capturing and letting you see all that happened in that region during the growing season and the winemaking choices taken by the winemaker - all there for you to share with your senses and good food and friends. And this was a special memory in time remembered... and another made.
Congratulations again my good friend on the 2019 IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year Award - well deserved - always so special catching up & talking about Champagne, along with some exciting new project - until next time : ‘sip, savour & share the journey…’
Charles Heidsieck Champagnes are available in New Zealand and around the world from quality wine retailers and restaurants.
Their website: Charles Heidsieck Champagne.